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The fashion production chain is extensive, fragmented and distributed throughout Brazil, with many regional peculiarities.  To transform the sector as a whole it is necessary to develop shared solutions and to engage various stakeholders – something that is already at the heart of our work as Colabora Moda Sustentavel.

In order to accelerate the resolution of diverse and complex social, economic and environmental challenges, we decided to work for many months on the drawing up of recommendations. When embraced, they can unlock and drive the progress of such solutions and change the sector’s main challenges, thus making Brazilian fashion more ethical and sustainable.

WHAT IS A RECOMMENDATION

A good recommendation is one that, if truly embraced, is transformative. For this reason, the recommendations presented here are not designed to be revoutionary or utopian, but are based on real, viable levers that are often in line with emerging movements of the ecosystem in question.

As well as being feasible and having the power to change, the set of recommendations is an important framework to build on, as joint progress generates mutually supportive effects, reinforcing and empowering new paths.

THE RECOMMENDATIONS HAVE INTENDED RECIPIENTS

In addition, recommendations must be individually addressed to stakeholders who play a major role or even have formal responsibilities in the matter, stakeholders who can influence other stakeholders, who are available and able to engage in dialogue and influence, and who have the ability to raise the profile of the agenda and create new facts and information that take discussions in the sector to a new level.  No matter how complex an issue is, the recommended stakeholder has the ability to be effective.

THE PATH TO BUILDING THE RECOMMENDATIONS

To make them possible, the Recommendations for Sustainable Fashion in Brazil are being drawn up in a consultative and participatory process during 2021 – with analysis of national and international materials, in-depth interviews and public consultations.  The process is overseen by Colabora Moda Sustentavel and carried out by Prowa Strategic Consulting.

The potential recommendations are based on knowledge that has already been built up by various international works – by international organizations (OECD, UN, ILO, European Union), the British Government, Civil Society Organizations (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, BSR), case studies of other international fashion ecosystems (Spain, Asia), among others.

For the Brazilian context, the analysis was based mainly on the extensive and consistent work we do at Colabora Moda Sustentavel, which has conducted its strategy and multi-stakeholder initiatives to achieve positive transformation in the fashion supply chain, from a systemic understanding of challenges, risks and opportunities, and the emergent and collaborative learning of solutions that bring benefits to all.

THE PROCESS OF BUILDING
THE RECOMMENDATIONS

2017

Kick-off of Colabora Moda Sustentavel and identification of the 6 transformative axes: Education, Science & Technology; Employment and Equity; Environment; Culture & Consumption; Business Model; and Public Policies

MAY 2021

Mapping of 65 ideas, experiences and possibilities that could become recommendations for addressing the transformative axes and their challenges, based on the documents of Colabora Moda Sustentavel and other national and international movements

AUGUST 2021

 Definition of 25 proposals for recommendations grouped into 5 major needs: 1. Developing the chain and the business environment; 2.  Increasing the supply of capital; 3.  Strengthening the Fashion Ecosystem and its Organizations and Stakeholders; 4.  A favorable legal and regulatory environment; 5.  Generating and Disseminating Knowledge

OCTOBER 2021

Nationwide public consultation on the Colabora Moda Sustentavel Recommendations – Pathways to Sustainable Fashion in Brazil

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

Collective construction of strategies for economic recovery with sustainability, one of the bases for building the recommendations

JULY 2021

Interviews with experts and stakeholders with relevance to the issue – employees of companies and associations in the fashion sector, public and regulatory bodies, civil society organizations that support the agenda and public officials with relevance to the issue

AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2021

Consultation and collection of contributions from Colabora Moda Sustentavel members, definition of 20 recommendations for sustainable fashion in Brazil

NOW IT'S YOUR TURN TO CONTRIBUTE TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF THIS IMPORTANT PROJECT!

READ the Colabora Moda Sustentavel recommendations thoroughly.

SHARE this page with your contacts.  The more people with access to the recommendations, the better!

SET UP A PLAN to implement the recommendations in your work environment. Remember that if they are not embraced, they will not be effective.

GIVE PRIORITY to the strategies that are most connected to your line of work and advocate for change.

COLLABORATE with those who are working to maximize results and reach out to us if you want to build solutions and guidelines together.

In each of the categories below, you’ll find the details on the recommendations.

If you have any questions relating to information or terminology, you can consult our Glossary here.

Ícone <p>1.1 That all enterprises in the fashion supply chain, including online platforms selling apparel, footwear and accessories – through their competent areas – have procurement and compliance policies requiring the origin of the goods’ materials and the working conditions in which they were produced, including contract workers and subcontracted workers, from the raw material to the purchased product.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Enterprises in the fashion supply chain, sector associations, business associations, corporate foundations and institutes</p>
<p>1.2 That large companies in the sector establish procurement policies aimed at a strategic relationship with the supply chain – increasing predictability, committing to purchases, ensuring payment terms that do not jeopardize the financial health of suppliers – for medium, small, and micro suppliers, contributing to the sustainability of stakeholders in the chain and reducing inequalities and vulnerabilities among them.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Enterprises in the fashion supply chain, sector associations, business associations, corporate foundations and institutes</p>
<p>1.3 Development of a public agreement – between major business associations and key social actors in the supply chain – to create a sustainable fashion innovation agenda in Brazil with ESG and SDG targets by 2030. Clearly outlining – in a measurable and time-bound manner – the strategies, objectives, and goals that enable the entire chain, including micro and small enterprise, to regain competitiveness domestically and internationally, while adhering to the best social practices (expanding labor rights) and environmental practices (reducing the need for natural resource consumption and promoting circularity).</p>
<p>Interested parties: Enterprises in the fashion supply chain, sector associations, business associations, corporate foundations and institutes | Civil Society Organizations Example of action: Large and medium-sized brands and retailers should participate in sustainability benchmarking programs, such as the benchmarking program. Example of action: Development of a strategic study on Generation of Shared Value in the fashion supply chain to reduce inequalities and fragility among stakeholders, providing the foundation for the setting of goals.</p>
<p>1.4 Fashion retailers’ professionals responsible for selecting collections for stores (e.g., fashion buyers) should incorporate Brazilian identities into their collections, reinforce the diversity of body types in their products, economically value and respect authorship, as well as the self-determination of the groups involved in production.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Enterprises in the fashion supply chain, sector associations, business associations, corporate foundations and institutes</p>
<p>1.5 Textile, footwear, accessories, and retail enterprises should actively promote the reduction and offsetting of their GHG emissions, the efficient use of natural resources, proper waste management, the cutting back on the use of hazardous chemicals in production, the adoption of regenerative and circular practices, and implement measurement and certification mechanisms. They should commit to measurable targets and set deadlines within the next 5 years.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Enterprises in the fashion supply chain, sector associations, business associations, corporate foundations and institutes</p>
<p>1.6 Sector associations, major enterprises, and social organizations should establish a national network that promotes sustainable businesses throughout the supply chain – with mechanisms for collecting information about the origin of materials and products and their dissemination – to ensure transparency of origin, visibility, and supply chain traceability, promoting fair trade.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Enterprises in the fashion supply chain, sector associations, business associations, corporate foundations and institutes | Civil Society Organizations.</p>

1. DEVELOPING THE CHAIN AND THE BUSINESS ENVIRONMENT

Improving business models for a more robust chain – with fewer risks and increased development of the fashion, textiles, accessories and footwear industries – can foster a healthy competitive environment, guarantee rights and offer better working conditions for all workers, whether direct or indirect, and meet the expectations of consumers around the world for greater sustainability.

The related recommendations seek to make the chain more resilient, better qualified and more professional, and to encourage practices that reduce informality and bring social and environmental security to all.

Ícone <p>2.1 That incubators and accelerators across the country hold cycles of open calls for solutions for the sustainable fashion chain, offering financial resources to scale impact businesses and startups – developers of sustainable and scalable solutions.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Financial institutions, funds, economic development agencies, incubators and accelerators</p>
<p>2.2 That civil society organizations with actions geared towards the fashion supply chain, together with sector associations, lead initiatives that connect international social and environmental financiers, increasing the possibility of attracting other resources to finance a sustainable transition in the chain and leveraging the visibility of critical environmental and social issues.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Enterprises in the fashion supply chain, sector associations, business associations, corporate foundations and institutes | Civil Society Organizations Example of thematic agendas: Reduced use of pesticides, habitat restoration, agroecological transition.</p>
<p>2.3 That large enterprises in the fashion supply chain direct 10% of their gross profits each year towards accelerating R&D agendas (e.g. setting up technological innovation centers, developing internal innovation projects), focusing on sustainable solutions for the territory – eliminating social and environmental impacts throughout the chain, along the lines of existing programs.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Enterprises in the fashion supply chain, sector associations, business associations, corporate foundations and institutes</p>
<p>2.4 That private banks, digital banks, fintechs and credit cooperatives set up funds to support MEIs (Microentrepreneurs), micro, small and medium-sized enterprises, and provide financial instruments (such as insurance, productive/machinery financing, microcredit, guarantee funds) suitable for the most vulnerable links in the chain.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Financial institutions, funds, economic development agencies, incubators and accelerators</p>

2. INCREASE IN CAPITAL SUPPLY

It is possible to leverage and accelerate various technical, technological and social solutions that have already been mapped out and are being tested in the supply chain. To achieve this, it is necessary to attract and expand resources to foster new business models, the development and adoption of fair and sustainable technologies and productive arrangements in the Brazilian fashion supply chain. By targeting and expanding financial resources from different sources – governments, charities, banks, companies in the chain and investors.

In this regard, the recommendations seek to attract capital, expand lines of financing and increase the availability of philanthropic and otherwise non-philanthropic financial resources to foster more sustainable business models, technologies and productive arrangements.

Ícone <p>3.1 Companies, institutes and corporate and family foundations support the creation of new organizations and work to strengthen civil society organizations (NGOs, production cooperatives, sewing collectives and groups, representative associations) that support social and environmental causes in the fashion supply chain, thus creating a more diverse and dynamic ecosystem in the search for collective solutions, by allocating 10% of their annual budget to this agenda.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Enterprises in the fashion supply chain, sector associations, business associations, corporate foundations and institutes</p>
<p>3.2 That all educational and training institutions, such as technical education institutes, vocational institutes and “Sistema S” organizations – which offer various free courses and training that focus on entrepreneurial education and the formalization of the fashion supply chain’s workforce – review their methodology, language and online platforms (user experience), thus creating appropriate and user-friendly formats – simple online navigation and clear language for the target audience of these training courses, both in large centers and in regional hubs.</p>
<p>Example of action: Apply revisions to methodologies based on the Human centered design concept using mechanisms for the participation of beneficiaries in the construction of free services/products – e.g. consultation with focus groups of those who will benefit from the courses, listening to local groups of seamstresses before the construction and adaptation of training programs and courses.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Education, training and qualification institutions – such as primary education, college education, specialization, technical and vocational institutions</p>
<p>3.3 That universities and technical schools incorporate the themes of sustainability, social responsibility, human rights, decent work, equity and the regenerative and circular economy into their undergraduate, postgraduate and extension teaching offerings in courses dedicated to the chain and in an interdisciplinary manner within existing regular courses.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Education, training and qualification institutions – such as primary education, college education, specialization, technical and vocational institutions</p>
<p>3.4 That the sector associations expand the scope of their ‘Responsible Management’ programs in a vigorous way, reaching 100% of their members by 2025, and from 2025 onwards establish minimum standards of responsible management for participation in the associations.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Enterprises in the fashion supply chain, sector associations, business associations, corporate foundations and institutes</p>

3. STRENGTHENING THE FASHION ECOSYSTEM AND ITS ORGANIZATIONS AND ITS STAKEHOLDERS

In order to transform production chains into healthy and sustainable ecosystems of shared value – with a reduction in inequalities, a reduction in injustices, and the practice of corporate social responsibility – we must rely on stakeholders who are diverse in scope, size and maturity, with complementary knowledge and skills, and with the ability and predisposition to understand and build a positive mutual agenda. Systemic and collaborative solutions are more creative, generate more balanced and beneficial actions for the community and businesses, ensuring longevity for such solutions and social stability.

A fashion ecosystem is made up of stakeholders such as large-scale farmers and small-scale family producers of natural fibers, manufacturers of artificial and synthetic fibers, spinning and weaving mills, processors, apparel manufacturers, distributors and retailers, workers, including immigrants, from all these links in the textile chain in formal or informal working conditions, consumers, machinery suppliers, equipment suppliers, software producers, specialty magazines publishers, fashion trade shows; advertising agencies, worker protection bodies, regulators, civil society organizations, community and production group leaders, fashion designers, digital retail platforms, influencers, journalists, fashion editors, media, etc.

Ícone <p>4.1 That procurement departments of public bodies incorporate aspects of social, environmental and circular economy performance (e.g. non-virgin and recycled raw materials) into the criteria for evaluating suppliers of textiles, apparel and accessories as a differentiator in procurement processes.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Public institutions – ministries, secretariats, public autarchies, direct and indirect public administration</p>
<p>4.2 That, along the lines of the PAA (Food Acquisition Program) and the PNAE (National School Feeding Program), municipalities and local bodies in the direct and indirect public administration can purchase, through open calls, apparel and accessories produced by MEIs (Microentrepreneurs), micro-enterprises or associated production groups or local cooperatives, with no need for a bidding procedure.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Public institutions – ministries, secretariats, public autarchies, direct and indirect public administration Example of action: Carrying out small calls for proposals and splitting the purchase into lots so that cash flow is not an impediment to MEI (Microentrepreneur) and micro-enterprise suppliers.</p>
<p>4.3 That the Ministry of the Environment develops policies to promote the circular economy – such as extending the rules of the National Solid Waste Policy (PNRS) to the textile and apparel industry – and implements the financial mechanisms and tax incentives already provided for in the PNRS law (chapter 3, article 8, items IX and X) linked to solutions for the sorting and collection of textile waste for large generators (e.g. lower garbage rates for those who collect textile waste). lower waste tax for those who collect textile waste, for those who replace staple fiber with filament), mapping of the sector’s emissions, lines of financing that encourage the reduction of the chain’s environmental footprint, soil regeneration and watercourses, etc.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Public institutions – ministries, secretariats, public autarchies, direct and indirect public administration</p>
<p>4.4 That the Ministry of Finance, through the “Simples Nacional” Management Committee, advances the national statute for micro and small enterprises, creating national committees to discuss and develop labor issues, innovation and certification in the same way that it created “Redesim” – responsible for creating the MEI (Microentrepreneur) category, for speeding up the registration of new enterprises.</p>
<p>Interested parties: Public institutions – ministries, secretariats, public autarchies, direct and indirect public administration</p>

4. FAVORABLE LEGAL AND REGULATORY ENVIRONMENT

To tackle challenges, it is also necessary to act on the legal and regulatory environment, both public and private, considering opportunities to build and revise regulations and standards that demand minimum conditions, social and environmental responsibility, ethics and transparency, and that facilitate the sustainable development of the ecosystem. Having a favorable legal and regulatory environment is a key factor in fostering and encouraging the development and adoption of sustainable social and environmental practices throughout the chain.

5. GENERATION AND DISSEMINATION OF KNOWLEDGE

We are unable to act on what we don’t know. Understanding the opportunities and effects of the fashion supply chain in Brazil is crucial for all the players to recognize their role and their potential to provide solutions. Disseminating knowledge and conducting regional and national strategies based on data are key to building assessment capacity and a sense of urgency on the chain’s social and environmental issues, seeking a structural change in consumption and production patterns through awareness, appreciation and social mobilization.